Bart van Olphen remembers his first time, speaking in a soft Dutch lilt and with more than a twinkle in his eye. It was in Brittany. "There was this beautiful lady called Marie," says the chef and food campaigner. "The idea was to make soup together, which we did, and then she gave me a beautiful tin of sardines. I was flying back to Amsterdam that night and promised to try them over the weekend."
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