The solitude was almost eerie as I paddled further into the clear water. A breeze whipped my hair and the sea lapped gently against my board. Then I spotted a whiskered old boy bobbing around, watching me from just a few feet away. His bald head, half-submerged in the ripples, glinted in the sun. I blinked – and my curious companion came into focus as one of the more numerous residents of this small Scottish island: a grey seal.
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