It happens often enough that I should know better: four or six people are coming for dinner on a weeknight. And I think that it's a great opportunity to try out that new recipe I saw in a weekend supplement. Roast duck on a school night? Lovely. What to serve with it? Spiced chickpeas would be nice. Or that Ottolenghi thing where he Middle Eastern-ises the shredded duck, serving it on corn tortillas with pomegranate jam, julienned cucumber and celery and warm, comforting butter-bean mash. Only 18 ingredients. As long as I get the duck cooked the night before and leave work on the dot, we'll be tucking in by 8pm, no problem…
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