The ballroom at the Bulgari Hotel in London has the distinction of being the only one I know that is four floors below ground ("You can almost hear the Tube," said my friend), and so, by the time we had all shuffled into it, in neatly pressed suits and best frocks, it felt a bit like being inside a slow cooker. But then, perhaps that was the anticipation emanating from the nominees. The first GQ Food and Drink Awards had attracted some of the biggest names in the business. Tom Kerridge presented an award, Oliver Peyton was one of the judges, and Alain Ducasse sat in the middle of it all like a Bourbon monarch, watching the waiters dispense the canapés he had created.
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